Bangkok Bash

I recently spent a week in Bangkok that culminated in attending my sister's long awaited and carefully planned 50th birthday party.

Flying with Philippine Airlines business class from Manila to Bangkok, for very little money and a very pleasant experience, made me realise that there is life after Silk Air.

I've been to Bangkok several times in the past, the last time being a brief overnight stay in July 2008 following a remarkable journey on the Orient Express from Singapore.  Before this the last time I was in Bangkok was 1999 when travelling back to the UK following an end of contract assignment in Taiwan.

During this time I also travelled on the overnight sleeper train up to Lam Pang to visit a former Thai colleague I'd worked with in Iraq.  Turning up unannounced he was himself away on assignment but told his wife to take care of me. I only intended to stay a couple of days and during this time I was ferried around on the back of his tiny wife's moped to various eating establishments and tourist spots.  They were also most insistent that I stay at their quaint timbered, traditional (if rather small) Thai house rather than a hotel.  I was also "forced" to sleep in their bed/bedroom, against my persistent protestations, whilst his wife bedded down with the teenage kids.  To her horror, the next day I was absolutely covered (and I mean covered) from head to foot in red, itchy pimples where I'd been eaten alive during the night by mosquitoes.  For me it wasn't a big issue and I cheerfully made light of it - I certainly wasn't going to complain about a few mossie bites following their kind generosity.  For me it was a one off but for them it was more or less and everyday ordeal so they had more of my sympathies than they should have had for me.

I like Thailand but I've never really been one to rave about it as some do, including my sister (hence the somewhat expensive decision to hold her 50th birthday party in Bangkok).  I like the soft gentle manner of the Thais, their incredible politeness and hard working resourcefulness.  I'm not so keen the seedy side and dislike being constantly asked if I want to go and see a ping-pong show when shopping in Phat Phong market - I don't even like table tennis.

Walls of the Grand Palace

Generally, I find most Thais to be honest and principled but there are occasionally a few rotten apples that spoil the barrel.

For example, the tuk-tuk driver that wanted, then insisted and then became aggressively demanding that we ride his tuk-tuk to the restaurant we were looking for.  I had an idea that it was nearby but we'd walked past it because he'd deliberately given us wrong directions in the hope that he'd make a fast buck, and as it were, we were only 50 yards from the place.

Then there was the corrupt policeman who fined me Bt 500 for not wearing my seat belt, who then pocketed the money when I paid up, rather than give me a ticket.  Yes, I wasn't wearing my seat belt but I was being targeted because I'm a cash-cow foreigner with money.

Then there was the stroppy tuk-tuk driver who agreed to take us to Paragon Siam shopping centre but then en-route  insisted on taking us to his friend's jewellery factory.  This is a popular scam in Thailand and a prime place to be ripped off and intimidated into spending more than you would ordinarily, usually on overpriced merchandise.  When we insisted on going to the shopping centre we were turfed out of the tuk-tuk in a less than salubrious alleyway.

But this shouldn't detract from what was a splendid and enjoyable week and the positives easily outweighed the negatives - especially the great food, fantastic temples and many, many wonderful people.  I enjoyed walking the streets, despite the oppressive heat, and discovering temples, markets and cafes that you wouldn't ordinarily see if you used a taxi or tuk-tuk.

View from the Party Venue

We went from staying in a flash hotel with the spacious rooms I'd ever seen, to staying in a swish and exclusive resort where the party was held, which is was located on the Chao Phraya River at the rear of the Grand Palace.

The Venue

And the party?  A great event, planned with military precision so full credit and thanks to my extremely generous sister for giving many people a brilliant and highly memorable time on her 50th.

Auf Wiedersehen Pet!