I went over to Guimaras last weekend as it's nearby and seemed worthwhile exploring. The 30 minute crossing on the RoRo ferry was very expensive for the short distance involved and compared to what ferries cost to go to other more distant destinations. Certainly it's expensive in Philippine terms - around £26 for the return journey.
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| Iloilo River Port |
Without a vehicle it's ridiculously cheap at only 20p so like so many things in the Philippines, there's no rhyme or reason.
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| Entrance to the Iloilo River |
We had to be up early and down to the docks sharpish as the ferry operates on a first come, first serve basis so we were on the quayside at 6:00am for a ferry departure at 7:30am.
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| RoRo Ferry Company |
The journey takes around 40 minutes, down the Iloilo River and across the straits between the two islands and onto the port, Jordan, on the Guimaras side.
With no plan in mind the plan was to simply drive around and see as much of the island as possible. The first stop was for my driver to have his breakfast in the nearby market. I had a wander round and was very quickly approached by a middle aged lady with a bad limp and a crooked mouth and who introduced herself as Gwendolin. Her first question as I stood on the quayside was could I be her friend. Guarded and cautious as to where this was going (it usually means handing over money) but not wishing to appear unfriendly, I agreed. She then launched into her life story, about how she was mugged in Bacolod by a group of six and so badly beaten that she ended up in a coma for 3 months. This is what gave her the limp and she showed me the scars on her leg. She then pointed out to me her boyfriend in the crowd on the quayside and said that he had frequently asked her to leave, but she had nowhere to go. I really don't know why she was telling me all this when I'd only just met her but clearly, and probably from the beating she had had some time ago, she wasn't quite right but I couldn't help feeling sorry for her.
She then asked me to take a photograph of her, and to the jeering and cheering from crowd I obliged, curious as to why someone (and it's not uncommon in the Philippines) would want their photo taken when they'll never see it?
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| Colourful Jeepneys in Guimaras |
One photo wasn't enough and she wanted more. One by the road sign and another by the jeepney. At this point I felt as though it was time to get away. She asked me if I could buy her a coke but I genuinely didn't have any money on me and as I walked back to the car she gripped my arm and as we passed a local fisherman he said something to her, which she translated as "So, you're a tour guide now?"
At the car she said come and visit again and I gave her 15 pesos for her coke, upon which she grabbed me around the neck, pulled me down and gave me a big wet kiss on the cheek - something I'd rather she hadn't done.
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| The Island of Panay Seen From Guimaras |
We then set off driving around the island. Surprisingly though, having expected to see plantation upon plantation of mango trees there didn't seem to be very many at all. We made a visit to the Trappist monastery shop to buy some dried mango products, the best mango jam ever and a powdered ginger which is added to hot water to make drink with.
For lunch we went to Raymen's Beach Resort and it was a stunning little beach with white sands and warm, crystal clear sea. And the food wasn't bad either. Not great but then not bad.
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| That Must Be the Owner's Boat |
The rest of the day was spent driving around, taking in the countryside and photographing the sites.
All in all, not a bad way to spend the day, despite the cost of getting there.
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