Luis' Final Weekend

It's always a problem knowing what to do to entertain visitors.  Trying to work out what they do and don't like is quite difficult but having returned from Donsol I had a bit of time to mull it over whilst Luis recovered from his bout of dysentery.  Actually, after a trip to the local clinic and a very public examination in the waiting room, he was told his illness was largely attributable to the drugs he was taking for another stomach ailment that increased his susceptibility to stomach infection.

We had two options to chose from for Luis' last weekend: a hike up the volcano, Mt. Pinatubo, or a visit to the Banaue rice terraces, which I had visited last July.  On one hand I was keen to do the Pinatubo trip as it's on my list of things to do whilst in the Philippines but then I was also keen to revisit Banaue and spend a bit more time there.

We eventually settled on the trip to Banaue and so set off early morning.  It took longer than expected to get there, largely due to underestimating the distance but also because of holiday traffic.  

Entertainment en-route to Banaue

The intention was to go directly to Batad but due to our late arrival, we decided to spend the remainder of the day in Banaue and make an early start to Batad the following day, and so checked into the Stairway Lodge where I stayed a year ago.  This gave us the opportunity to explore the nearby terraces (via a very bouncy, wobbly suspension foot bridge) that were within walking distance, so off we set.  Not as impressive as those at Batad but it's always interesting, if not somewhat dangerous walking along the narrow edges of the terraces with the huge drop on one side and a wet muddy puddle on the other.  I know which I prefer.

Wobbly bridge

Back a bit . . . . 

Whilst walking around the terraces we met with plenty of very friendly locals.  There's something about being out of the cities and living the rural life that definitely makes people friendlier, happier and more welcoming.

Happy kids

Hi-ho, hi-ho, it's off to work we go

That evening we had a wander around Banaue town. Village more like.  It was dead.  We were told that for the previous 3 days there had been a huge festival of local music, cultural dancing, beauty contests and competitions, including catching the greasy pig.  Now that I would have like to have seen.  Apparently, we were told that the first pig they greased up put up no resistance to be captured.  So another "volunteer" was found.  However, this one was the complete opposite and escaped down and alleyway, never to be seen again.  It would have been good to see the festival but never mind, there's always next year.  Oh no there isn't.  We were told it was a once every 3 year event.  Better pencil that into my diary then.

Banaue town

The follow day, after an early night due to nothing very much to do, we made an early start and headed out to Batad.  You can only drive so far before before you have to start hiking.  Last year we didn't have a 4x4 vehicle so did considerably more walking, but this time we had an SUV that could take us to the ridge known as The Saddle.  From here, after politely refusing the assistance of impromptu guides offering their services, we set off heading down the massive staircase and down the mountain into Batad.

On the way down to Batad

I love this place.  The serenity, the cool mountain air, the wonderful people and the staggering views.  Having to hike in and not being able to drive in makes it all the more to be appreciated, like something you work for is always better than getting something for nothing.  We selected a lodge at the top of the valley with a commanding view of the rice amphitheatre. After dumping our bags we had the weirdest local coffee that had the look and texture of muddy water but which was surprisingly tasty.  On looks alone no one would chose to drink it.  It certainly wouldn't be a big seller in your local Starbucks.

View from the terrace of the lodge

I accepted a local guide's offer to show us the route to the waterfall, more out of wanting to support the local economy rather than need as I was familiar with the route from the last time I visited.  The hike is pretty tough despite it being mostly downhill to the waterfall and the heat was a real killer.  At the falls we had a swim in the chilly waters at the base with the thundering noise of the water and the fine spray and mist to keep us cool.  It was a very welcome relief from the heat of the trek.  Although it was short lived as on the way out it was a steep, sweaty climb back to the lodge.  We did consider going right up to the top of the terraces, quite a stiff climb in itself but decided against it principally on the basis of we were both lacking protection from the sun and were burning up.

Batad water fall

I'd charged my digital camera the night before in Banaue but in the morning found out that it had hardly charged at all. Initially I thought it was the fault of the lodge but then discovered it was a problem with a faulty mains lead for the charger.  This was a mix of good and bad news. The bad news was I had no digital camera and no HD video.  The good news is that this forced me to use my fully mechanical Pentax 6x7 camera.  The bad news is for you who are familiar with the 6x7 it's a bit of lump to be lugging around on hike through the mountains.  Having said that I thought the results from the camera made it very worthwhile, even if there are only 12 frames to a film.

We were told in Batad by one of the guides that a Korean woman had fallen off a high terrace and suffered severe head injuries (some of the terraces must be 9 ft high).  There are no roads in or out and I can't see there being an air ambulance available so I've no idea how they got her to hospital. We'd been told that she was looking though her camera rather than were she was going.  Really not recommended when walking along the edge of a 9 ft drop.  The danger is that in order to protect the stupid tourists from themselves, in future there may be designated walking paths or handrails installed which would completely distract from the authenticity of the place with the location taking on a Disney like theme park feel. Although I can't see that happening any time soon. Besides, the locals and their tiny kids don't seem to have a problem. 

Back at the lodge we had a late lunch, Luis had more muddy coffee whilst I had a few beers.  We spent our time entertaining the enchanting kids living there.  No Gameboy or Playstation for them.  They were thrilled with paper planes, origami jumping frogs and simple tricks. Like I've said so many time before, it seems to be that kids that have the least are always the happiest.  Similarly, kid that have nothing tend to play and share with each other rather than playing in isolation and being possessive.

Start playing young

Charming and well mannered kids

We stayed over night at the lodge, which was around £3 a night but we'd spent a small fortune on food, drinks.

The next day we were up before sunrise to go out and take in the early morning views.  We'd arranged for the guide to take us out but he was late so we started off making our own way.  A short while later he caught up with us looking somewhat dishevelled and it was my reckoning that he'd gone out and got himself drunk on the proceeds of his earnings the day before.

Walking around in the cool morning air is far more pleasant than the heat of the day.  Back at the lodge we had huge breakfast before hiking back up to the saddle and back into the car for the long drive back to Subic.

On the way back, Luis does, what Luis does best!