16 August 2012

A Slow Boat From China - Berk's Just Desserts

Saturday 7th April 2012 (Day 3)

In the morning there was no improvement in the weather.  Boiling water for tea was out of the question again so I had a Coke Zero instead but what I really wanted was a nice cup of tea. Somehow Coke Zero just didn't hit the spot like good cuppa would have.

Flying fish were regularly found dead on the deck
Everyone seemed to be very lethargic but then there wasn't much else to do except sit around and be rocked to sleep. Standing was nigh on impossible, if not dangerous.  At best you were in danger of falling into something hard, at worst there was a real danger of going over the very low side rail and into the drink. John kept falling asleep with his rod in his hand but then as he wasn't catching much else since his moment of success yesterday, he wasn't about to be disturbed.

This photo shows how much the boat was  rolling
. . . as does this one
. . . and this one
I did another calculation this morning and reckon it's still going to take us at least another 3 days to get to Subic Bay, not accounting for all the spinning around and mis-direction, which was depressing enough, never mind not being able to have a cup of tea.

The chilled/frozen food in the so called refrigerators was already soggy, limp and turning rotten so the joke was that with our current progress we were all going to go down with scurvy.

To make matters worse I notice we've changed course and were heading due south and not south-east towards the Philippines.  When I queried this I was told that Berk had decided the best course of action was to head south because that's where the better weather would be.  Quite how he could determine this remains a mystery to me but it didn't seem a particularly bright idea.

Berk at the wheel
To my mind, considering the vulnerability of the boat we were travelling in, we would be better making for the Philippines in the shortest route possible as once we were in sight of land we would be in range of safe anchorage, harbours, mobile phones, fuel, possibly more sheltered waters and plenty of other craft to rescue us in the event of an emergency (bearing in mind we'd not seen another vessel since heading out).

I made breakfast for the crew which consisted of ham and tomato sandwiches.  Jim was raving about what fabulous sandwiches they were but when you're hungry it's amazing how good tinned ham and tomatoes in plastic bread tastes.

Lunch was pot noodles. We took the risk of boiling a kettle of water (and it nearly ended in an accident) as we were in need of some hot food.

Pot Noodle lunch
It was time to top up the fuel tanks and so Berk went below deck to top up the main tanks from the drums we had filled in Hong Kong. Below deck there wasn't much room and in the rough conditions standing was difficult. Berk had the hand pump and placed it in one of the barrels with the hose running across deck to the fuel tank fulling point.  Once he started turning the handle diesel started spraying out from every conceivable connection and I couldn't help thinking that even without the right tool I would have made a better job of putting the pump together so it didn't leak.  Diesel was spraying the deck below making it very, very slippery.  It went onto the hot engine making it smoke and was soaking Berk in smelly fuel.  As he tried to crank the handle on the pump, which was taking twice as long as it was sucking in air, Berk kept slipping on the deck and the only thing that was to hand, and which he grabbed by reflex, was the exhaust pipe scalding his hand. If he did it once, he did it a dozen times. Most of it was insulated except the bit that was used as a step to access the engine room, and this was the bit Berk kept grabbing.  But he very soon let go, cussing and swearing.  I don't consider myself a vindictive person but I was kind of enjoying watching this go on and thinking to myself as I watched 'I've sacked people for doing less that that'!

One drum down and only 3 to go: it was going to be a close thing to get to our destination on the fuel we had available.

By late afternoon the battering that the boat was taking on the port side (a symptom of going due south) took its toll and a large piece of the front trim broke off.  Jim managed to induce a fair amount of anxiety by declaring that the boat was starting to break up but retracted his statement saying it was superficial damage only. Regardless, it looked like a pretty significant chunk of the boat.  A salvage team (me and Jim) was organised as the timber was held in place by the handrail netting and was bashing against the side of the boat.  The easiest solution would have been to cut it free but Jim, obviously as it was part his investment, wanted to salvage what was a significant lump of wood for the repairs to be carried out later so after several attempts it was hauled up and lashed to the side of the deck.
Parts of the boat were being knocked off

Steering the boat didn't get any easier. The loop-de-loop usually 
occurred at a change over.
That evening Jim and I were on the 9pm to midnight shift. We were unable to agree over the heading we are taking.  I thought the arguments that I was putting forward to get as close a possible to the coastline made sense but Jim could only counter argue that he thought that what Berk had decided in heading south was the best idea. And so we continued to head deeper into the South China Sea half way between the Philippines and Vietnam.  It would be a long swim to shore.

Our progress over the next 24 hours was as follows (note the change of direction heading due south):

Progress shown in green

15 August 2012

A Slow Boat From China - Into the Storm


Friday 6th April 2012

Our progress since leaving yesterday evening and up until midnight (for the 5th April) was as follows:

Progress shown in bold blue line
At midnight we had just passed the tip of the island of Dangan Dao, which is approximately only 16 miles from our mooring at Aberdeen Harbour.

During the night falling asleep wasn't a problem - staying asleep was. The boat was rolling heavily so if I laid lengthways to the boat there was a constant battle not to fall off the narrow bench that I was sleeping on and hence kept waking up due to nearly falling off.  If I slept across the boat then it was akin to being on one of those fairground rides where you alternate between weightlessness to having all the blood rush to your head and then a lightheadedness as it all drains back to your feet.

Hence, waking up at 3:00am to take over steering the boat/watch wasn't so much as a chore but a relief.  As we took over, Adam gave me look and nodded towards Brian.  I gave him a 'What?' look back and he sidled up to me and told me that Brian had been completely unable to steer the boat and had spend quite some time just going around in circles, hence Adam had done the vast majority of the steering.

Admittedly it was extremely difficult to steer as the heavy cloud cover and the darkness made it pitch black and therefore there was no moon or stars to follow, and we were beyond sight of land and any shore lights to use as a reference.  It was very easy to become completely disorientated.  The only guide we had was a handheld GPS device that was swinging about and had a delay in referencing your actual direction to the one you'd just steered in.  Furthermore, with the screens down to keep the weather out they were acting like a sail with the strong wind blowing on them, in a boat with no fin keel such as you'd have in a yacht and so we were at the mercy of the wind, waves, tides and currents.  Steering the boat in a straight line was akin to steering a bumper car on ice.

GPS track of the boat - hardly a straight line
The sun rise didn't happen, it was just too overcast.  All that happened was the sky went from black to dark grey and stayed that way for most of the day.  I was looking forward to a cup of tea or coffee but boiling water was deemed too dangerous, what with the boat rocking and rolling around as much as it was and the gas hob wasn't on a gimble so there was a real danger of a kettle of boiling water sliding off and scalding someone.

All there was to do was sit about or take turns spinning the boat around.  Looking at my GPS it was apparent that with the zig-zagging and spinning around we were taking a far longer route than if we were heading in a straight line so I was concious that fuel might become an issue at some point.

By late morning the sea had calmed down somewhat which made for a significantly more pleasant and smoother journey.

John spent his time fishing off the back of the boat and spirits were raised when he caught a rather splendid looking Mahi-Mahi fish, which rather spectacularly changed colours as it died.  This was then was the principle ingredients for a somewhat late lunch and very delicious it was too.  Cooking lunch was a rather hazardous affair with the boat pitching around but we had to eat something.

Mahi-Mahi caught by John

Brian pretends he's caught a fish 

. . . and a change of colour

By late afternoon the wind picked up and we were jumping around again.  We passed a couple of oil rigs and I looked at the support vessels nearby and longed to be on one of those instead.  With the side of the boat acting like a sail we seemed to pick up a bit more speed.

We passed several oil rigs
Checking my GPS again it was becoming obvious that we had no chance of completing this trip in the time we were told it would take unless we were on a fast tide and with some very strong winds behind us.  My calculation was that we would arrive some time Monday night, assuming there were no delays or problems.

That night, and with the winds becoming even stronger making the boat roll even more alarmingly, Jim and I were on the midnight to 3:00am watch.  We passed a huge oil platform that lit up the sky and at our pedestrian speed seemed to take forever to reach and pass but other than that we just ploughed on into the the darkness.

Our progress for the day (6th April, from midnight to midnight was as follow: